Modern Vintage Sighting: Gucci's Interpretation of Art Deco Architecture

Frida Giannini just happened to put out a Jazz Age inspired S/S 2012 collection on the 90th anniversary of Gucci's founding in 1921. She claims she was inspired not by the milestone, but by New York skyscrapers, (which just happened to be designed in the 1920s...). And what about all the other Jazz Age collections that beat her to the punch this season? Couldn't we say she was just following this season's dominant trend? Perhaps.

But frankly, this collection is so modern and different from all the others inspired by the same decade that I have to say I believe her! The references to art deco architecture are unmistakable and the 1920s silhouettes don't even appear until the last ten or so looks. It never feels costumey, and I'd be hard pressed to say it was a Gucci history lesson in honor of the anniversary. It's very forward-looking and a testament to how a fashion house can thrive for almost a century.

Chrysler Building exterior

Empire State Building exterior

Chrysler Building interior staircase

New York City sidewalk

American Radiator Building

Wall Street building entrance

Empire State Building light fixture

Fuller Construction Building

Chrysler Building entrance

New York City building

Fifth Avenue building

Modern Vintage Sighting: Etro Spring/Summer 2012 Futurist Revival

When I mentioned in the last post that the Jazz Age revival on the runways for 2012 was more literal than it has been in many years, I wasn't kidding! The spring/summer 2012 collection from Etro not only put a modern twist on the 1920s silhouettes, but adapted the works of futurist painter Fortunato Depero (1892-1960) for the prints. This gives us a collection that captures the vivaciousness of the 1920s with less a sense of the impending doom of the Great Depression.

Whereas other collections have favored more mellow tones and softer prints, giving the impression of thoughtful commentary on modern economic times and their relation to the Jazz Age, the Etro collection is full of the carefree attitudes that would lead to the economic downturn without a sense of 20/20 hindsight. None of the impending doom or gloom as seen in some others.

However, it should be noted, that artist Depero's futurist style of painting went rapidly out of favor when it began to be tied to fascism (a movement which would lead to world war), so perhaps the use of his works as inspirations for the prints, despite their bright energy, is Etro's more hidden and surprising reference to today's less than optimistic economic and political climate.

Modern Vintage Sighting: The Jazz Age in Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2011

In honor of the fact that sales this month will be supporting the New Orleans-based Tipitina's Foundation, I thought I'd step away from the '70s revival for a bit and take a look at another vintage revival, one that's also already been popping up in 2012 collections: the return of the Jazz Age.

It's not unusual for 1920s-inspired looks to appear time and again on runways, just think Chanel. But collections from this year and for next have been especially literal in their interpretations. I mean, in Milan the Tod's models even walked the runways to recordings from the 1920s.

The prevalence of jazz era looks and the more literal interpretation is hard to miss, and it's just as hard to chalk it up to general nostalgia and an aesthetic reference while overlooking the economic implications. This was, after all, the age in which big business and questionable banking practices led to the Great Depression. With the protests on Wall Street and across the world, this is undoubtedly fashion's comment on these turbulent times.

Here are some snippets from the Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2011 collection, which seems now to be a sign of what was to come on the 2012 runways. Look for more collections inspired by the Jazz Age throughout the week, including those just shown in Milan.