Modern Vintage Sighting: Gucci's Interpretation of Art Deco Architecture

Frida Giannini just happened to put out a Jazz Age inspired S/S 2012 collection on the 90th anniversary of Gucci's founding in 1921. She claims she was inspired not by the milestone, but by New York skyscrapers, (which just happened to be designed in the 1920s...). And what about all the other Jazz Age collections that beat her to the punch this season? Couldn't we say she was just following this season's dominant trend? Perhaps.

But frankly, this collection is so modern and different from all the others inspired by the same decade that I have to say I believe her! The references to art deco architecture are unmistakable and the 1920s silhouettes don't even appear until the last ten or so looks. It never feels costumey, and I'd be hard pressed to say it was a Gucci history lesson in honor of the anniversary. It's very forward-looking and a testament to how a fashion house can thrive for almost a century.

Chrysler Building exterior

Empire State Building exterior

Chrysler Building interior staircase

New York City sidewalk

American Radiator Building

Wall Street building entrance

Empire State Building light fixture

Fuller Construction Building

Chrysler Building entrance

New York City building

Fifth Avenue building

Modern Vintage Sighting: Ralph Lauren Revisits Gatsby

So back in the '70s, Ralph Lauren designed the costumes for the first movie adaptation of Fitzgerald's Great Gatsby. You know, the one with Robert Redford, Mia Farrow, and the painfully awkward dialogue (not sure Fitzgerald's writing was meant to be translated so literally...). Well with the new adaptation due out next year starring Leonardo Dicaprio and Carey Mulligan, Lauren opted to re-invent the Jazz Age designs with his S/S 2012 outing.

Interesting to note that Vogue says he jumped on the '20s revival before everyone else follows suit next year, after we've been seeing Jazz Age collections all season. I'm thinking Boardwalk Empire might have something to do with that. But undoubtedly, the Gatsby's return will usher in a drop-waist, fringe and beads revival the likes of which we're only just beginning to see.

As a side note, I agree, the colors in this collection are a little vomit-inducing. Some of the fabric choices are questionable. But considering this week is dedicated to Jazz Age revivals in honor of this month's charity, the Tipitina's Foundation, how could I pass it up?

Modern Vintage Sighting: Etro Spring/Summer 2012 Futurist Revival

When I mentioned in the last post that the Jazz Age revival on the runways for 2012 was more literal than it has been in many years, I wasn't kidding! The spring/summer 2012 collection from Etro not only put a modern twist on the 1920s silhouettes, but adapted the works of futurist painter Fortunato Depero (1892-1960) for the prints. This gives us a collection that captures the vivaciousness of the 1920s with less a sense of the impending doom of the Great Depression.

Whereas other collections have favored more mellow tones and softer prints, giving the impression of thoughtful commentary on modern economic times and their relation to the Jazz Age, the Etro collection is full of the carefree attitudes that would lead to the economic downturn without a sense of 20/20 hindsight. None of the impending doom or gloom as seen in some others.

However, it should be noted, that artist Depero's futurist style of painting went rapidly out of favor when it began to be tied to fascism (a movement which would lead to world war), so perhaps the use of his works as inspirations for the prints, despite their bright energy, is Etro's more hidden and surprising reference to today's less than optimistic economic and political climate.